Japanese azalea 2-9

Azaleas require a lot of water, especially during the flowering period. Keep the substrate moist at all times, but allow the root ball to dry out slightly between waterings to avoid over-watering.

In spring/summer, water regularly - when the weather is hot, water every day! In winter, water according to how closely you monitor the soil. Thanks to the rain and cold, you won't necessarily need to water because the substrate will remain moist. 

Important: Don't hesitate to water the entire root ball right down to the roots; the water will drain out through the holes in the underside of the pot, or soak it in water for a few minutes. We advise against putting a dish or container under your pot as the water will stagnate and may cause the roots to rot (too much water = asphyxiation).

Avoid tap water, which is hard (which can increase the pH), and opt for water from a well or spring (rainwater tank).

Every 2/3 years, the ideal time to repot your azalea is just after flowering. Repotting can only be done before flowering if you live in a warm region, especially if you have to cut off a few more roots than usual. This will enable the azalea to withstand the heat of June better. 

In the nursery, we use agricultural compost made up of black peat, blond peat, aged eco, topsoil, horse manure and pozzolan. The next time you repot, you can mix in a more draining substrate such as akadama, pumice, kiryu, etc. Just be careful not to disturb the roots, and don't destroy the whole root ball. Many bonsais react badly when repotted at the wrong time or too drastically. For this reason, cut as few roots as possible.

The most important thing to know is that azaleas like acid soil. They are often grown in a special substrate called Kanuma, named after the town of the same name. This is a soil with a natural pH of around 5, ensuring good drainage and water retention. Azaleas don't like to be thirsty, and they also hate having their roots immersed in water.

Once flowering is over, you should remove all the flowers, especially the pistil in the centre. If you leave it, it can develop into a small fruit, which will weaken your azalea. It is better to channel vigour into growth rather than fruit formation.

In the nursery we use NPK 12 12 17 blue tomato/flower fertiliser.  Put a handful (small or large depending on the size of the pot) on the substrate from spring May to October, every 2 months, alternating chemical/organic.