Prebonsai japanese white pine “pentaphylla” 1-9

Water it regularly, allowing the root ball to dry out slightly between waterings to avoid overwatering.

In spring/summer, water regularly; in warm weather, it's daily! However, in winter, water according to your soil monitoring. With rain and cold weather, you won't necessarily need to water regularly since the substrate will remain moist.

Important: Don't hesitate to water the entire root ball, right down to the roots; the water will drain through the holes at the bottom of the pot, or soak the tree in water (drainage) for a few minutes to ensure you've thoroughly watered the roots. We do not recommend placing a saucer or container under your pot because water will stagnate and can cause root rot. (Too much water = asphyxiation).

Pines require controlled watering. Overwatering, especially if the substrate is not well-draining, is fatal to the life of mycorrhizae. These are fungi whose roots live in symbiosis with those of the pine, helping it absorb minerals from the soil, such as phosphorus. Without this, the tree weakens and eventually dies.

In the nursery, we use agricultural potting soil composed of black peat, blond peat, aged organic soil, topsoil, horse manure, and pozzolan. During the next repotting, which is done approximately every 3 years, you can mix in a more free-draining substrate such as Akadama, Pumice, Kiryu, etc., but be careful not to disturb the root ball and do not destroy the entire root ball.

Many bonsai react significantly when repotted at the wrong time or too drastically. For this reason, cut back as few roots as possible.

Repotting period: during the growth of the candles and before the needles open, mid-March or late August/early September.

PRUNING: This variety does not appreciate excessive pruning. Therefore, prune very lightly in summer, always preserving the foliage.

PINCHING: When the spring buds expand: break off the strongest one with your fingers, leaving only 1/3 of the candle. For medium-sized candles, break off halfway. Remove 1/3 of the weakest ones. This should be done before the needles open, i.e., around March.

After the first pinching: when the new needles you left are mature. Cut the needles with scissors.

In the nursery, we use blue tomato/flower fertilizer NPK 12 12 17. Add a handful (small or large depending on the size of the pot) to the growing medium from spring (May to October), every two months, alternating between chemical and organic fertilizers.