Japanese white pine “pentaphylla” 1-8

Water it regularly, allowing the root ball to dry slightly between waterings to avoid overwatering.

In spring/summer, water regularly; in warm weather, it's daily! However, in winter, water according to your soil monitoring. Thanks to rain and cold weather, you won't necessarily need to water regularly since the substrate will remain moist.

Important: Don't hesitate to water the entire root ball, right down to the roots; the water will drain through the holes at the bottom of the pot, or soak the tree in water (draining) for a few minutes to ensure you've thoroughly watered the roots. We do not recommend placing a saucer or container under your pot, as the water will stagnate and can cause root rot. (Too much water = asphyxiation).

Pines need controlled watering. Excessive watering, especially if the substrate isn't well-draining, is fatal to the life of mycorrhizae. These are fungi whose roots live in symbiosis with the pine's roots, helping it absorb mineral elements from the soil, such as phosphorus. Without this, the tree weakens and eventually dies.

In the nursery, we use agricultural potting soil composed of black peat, blond peat, aged organic soil, topsoil, horse manure, and pozzolan. During the next repotting, which is done approximately every 3 years, you can mix in a more well-draining substrate such as akadama, pumice, kiryu, etc., just be careful not to disturb the root ball and don't destroy the entire root ball.

Many bonsai react significantly when repotted at the wrong time or too drastically. For this reason, you should cut as few roots as possible. Repotting period: during the growth of the stems and before the needles open, mid-March or late August/early September.

PRUNING : This variety does not appreciate excessive pruning. Therefore, prune very lightly in summer, always preserving the foliage.

PINCHING : When the spring buds are expanding: stop the strongest shoot by breaking it off with your fingers, leaving only 1/3 of the stem. For medium-sized stems, break it off by half. For the weakest, remove 1/3. This should be done before the stems open, i.e., around March.

After the first pinching: when the new needles you left are mature, cut the stems with scissors.

In the nursery we use blue tomato/flower fertilizer NPK 12 12 17. Put a handful (small or large depending on the size of the pot) on the substrate from spring (May to October), every 2 months, alternating chemical/organic.