Japanese white pine “pentaphylla” 1-2

Water regularly, allowing the root ball to dry out slightly between waterings to avoid over-watering. 

In spring/summer, water regularly, and every day in warm weather! In winter, on the other hand, water according to how closely you monitor the soil. Thanks to the rain and cold you won't necessarily need to water regularly as the substrate will remain moist. 

Important: Don't hesitate to water the whole root ball right down to the roots. The water will drain out through the holes in the underside of the pot, or you can bathe the tree in water for a few minutes to make sure you water all the way down to the roots. We advise against putting a dish or container under your pot, as the water will stagnate and may cause the roots to rot (too much water = asphyxiation). 

Pines need controlled watering. Too much, especially if the substrate does not drain, is fatal to the life of the mycorrhizae. These are fungi whose roots live in symbiosis with the pine's, helping it to absorb mineral elements from the soil, such as phosphorus. Without mycorrhizae, the tree weakens and eventually dies.

In our nursery, we use agricultural potting soil, which is made up of black peat, blond peat, aged organic matter, topsoil, horse manure and pozzolan. At the next repotting, which takes place every 3 years or so, you can mix in a more draining substrate such as akadama, pumice, kiryu, etc. Just be careful not to disturb the roots, and don't destroy the whole root ball. 

Many bonsais react badly when repotted at the wrong time or too drastically. For this reason, cut as few roots as possible

Repotting period: during candle growth and before the needles open, mid-March or late August/early September.

PRUNING: This variety does not appreciate being pruned too severely. Therefore, prune very lightly in summer, keeping the foliage intact.

PINCHING: When the spring buds open, break the strongest one with your fingers, leaving only 1/3 of the candle. Break off half of the medium candles. Remove 1/3 of the weaker candles. This should be done before the candles unfurl, i.e. around March.

After the first pinching: when the new needles you have left are mature. Cut the candles with scissors

In the nursery, we use NPK 12 12 17 blue fertiliser for tomatoes and flowers.  Put a handful (small or large depending on the size of the pot) on the substrate from spring May to October, every 2 months, alternating chemical/organic.